November 20, 2025 14:37 PM

La Patria Gaucha (The Gaucho Motherland)

The Fiesta de la Patria Gaucha transcends Uruguay. Named that way in reference to borders that are cultural rather than political, the celebration includes communities from Uruguay, Argentina and southern Brazil; all regions that have a common past involving livestock, open plains and immense spaces.

The rodeo was exciting, but the highlight of the festival was the parade. Some 3,200 horses and riders took part. The aparcería, or gaucho team, that won the festival last year opened the parade, dressed in typical clothes with “La flor del pago,” a gaucho expression for the beauty queen, leading the group. Make no mistake about it; they take the competition very seriously. As much as possible, the horses should all be of the same color. Criollos, a Uruguayan breed that excels at herding cattle, are favored over others. At the rear of the parade thousands of riders that were not members of any aparcería rode just for the fun of it.

Lots of the people participating in the parade were fully drunk by the end of it, and walking around the area became difficult. A herd of galloping horses passed by, guided by a drunken gaucho. One of the horses brushed my shoulder and hip, quite a blow given the animal’s weight, but the rider just laughed. After it was all over, the city slowly returned to normal as city hall workers dressed in gaucho clothes started sweeping away the tons of manure that were left on the streets.

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